Having stamped his mark on Moscow & beyond, Russian restaurant guru Arkady Novikov has staked a claim in London with the launch of two gastronomically distinct eateries under one roof on swish Berkeley Street (directly opposite paparazzi hangout Nobu). On-the-ball staff with bags of character make a big contribution in the Asian-themed restaurant, which delivers tip-top renditions of well-tried, big-city dishes: think lobster tempura, fine dim sum, ‘great black cod’, chicken yakitori, spanking fresh sashimi & some surprisingly good puddings. Otherwise, make a detour to the Italian Room, which is headed up by chef Stefano Secca (formerly at Rosmarino & the short-lived Osteria Secca): to eat, expect the likes of risotto with clams, fennel, lemon zest & parsley, as well as wood-roasted, 21-day-aged T-bone steak with globe artichoke & roast potato. Novikov’s standalone lounge bar adds further possibilities – although ‘breathtakingly rude’ service ruined it for one early visitor.
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